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New Ontario 5.12 at White Bluffs has Airy and Exposed Climbing

Peter Hoang and Matthew Sapiecha have established what will likely become a classic Ontario 5.12. They named their new line Keep Summer Safe and it traverses the second Prow left of The Monument. “The route was an idea that started when a friend pointed out the prow and said something to the extent of ‘Wouldn’t it be cool if you could traverse that face?'” said Hoang, one of Ontario’s leading climbing photographers.

Pete Hoang on Keep Summer Safe 5.12b at White Bluff. Photo Anna Pirko
Peter Hoang on Keep Summer Safe 5.12b at White Bluff. Photo Anna Pirko

The route can be climbed in one or two pitches. The first starts on blocky ledges and leads to a technical face climbing on the headwall and ends at a ledge. The second pitch traverses the exposed headwall and delivers airy positions with nothing but space below your feet. “Once past the start and first bolt, you’ll go through a series of techy moves that provide an adequate warm-up for the second pitch,” said Hoang. “Though nothing special, the first pitch is enjoyable by its own right if you’re looking to climb an easy 5.11.”

Hoang and Sapiecha bolted the second pitch on lead as to not disturb the vegetation on the top of the cliff. “This was my first lead bolting experience, so that was a bit of an adventure in and of itself,” said Hoang. “A few manky cams, thin hooks and a long belay later and the anchors were installed.” The second pitch has two variations, one with big reaches at 5.12b and one with burly moves at 5.12c/d. The first ascent took the 5.12b line. Be sure to follow Hoang on Instagram here and visit his site here for more photos and route information.