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New Patagonia Routes Start 2018 Season

The 2018 Patagonia summer season has kicked off with a number of new routes and variation.

Torok Zolt and Vlad Capusan have climbed a new mixed route, a variation to an existing one, up Cerro Adela Sur in Patagonia at M5+ WI4.

The 2,800-metre peak was first climbed Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri back in 1958 when they made a traverse from Adela Central to Cerro Grande. It’s called the Adelas Traverse.

Zolt and Capusan’s new climb heads up parts of the Filo Este route. After their climb, Capusan spoke to planetmountain.com and said, “We climbed some easy ice chimneys until the headwall where we joined a beautiful iced crack with some intense mixed sections for six pitches.

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“We exited onto the main ridge when the weather started to change.” Read the full interview here.

AGUJA VAL BIOIS – Cara este / East face – “La Torcida” [English further down] — En mitad de enero, los alemanes Lutz Zybell, Felix Getzlaff y Tom Ehrig escalaron una vía nueva en la cara este de la Aguja Val Biois. “La Torcida” comienza a la izquierda del Couloir Este y sigue una línea diagonal hacia la izquierda que lleva al Filo Sur. Escala 12 largos con dificultades hasta 7a y algo de terreno mixto. Tom hizo todos los largos de primero y a vista. Fijaron dos largos la tarde anterior y se bajaron al alcanzar la vía Filo Sur, sin seguir a la cumbre. No dejaron nada en la vía excepto un clavo por sobre la rimaya para marcar el inicio. Hasta mitad altura encontraron indicios de un intento anterior, pero nada en la parte superior. La describen como una vía disfrutona, con roca bastante buena. Esta pared esta muy protegida del viento, y por ende es una buena opción para cuando el clima y las condiciones no permiten aventuras más grandes. — In mid January, Lutz Zybell, Felix Getzlaff, Tom Ehrig from Germany climbed a new route on the east face of Aguja Val Biois. “La Torcida” starts left of Couloir Este and follows a left leaning crack system to the ridge of Filo Sur. It climbs 12 pitches with difficulties to 7a and some mixed climbing. Tom led every pitch onsight. They fixed the first two pitches the evening before starting and retreated upon joining the Filo Sur route. They left no gear in place, except one piton above the bergschrund to mark the start. They found signs of a previous attempt up to below half height, but nothing above. They describe it as an enjoyable climb on mostly solid rock. The face is quite sheltered from the wind, so it is a good option when the weather doesn’t allow for bigger adventures. #patagonia #agujavalbiois

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Over on the east face of Aguja Val Biois, Germans Lutz Zybell, Felix Getzlaff and Tom Ehrig climbed a new 12-pitch route up to 5.12.

Ehrig led nearly every pitch, all on-sight. They left no fixed gear and found signs that someone had attempted the route but bailed.

Matías Korten and Juvenal Condori linked a number of climbs on the east face of Aguja Guillaumet. They opened previously unclimbed ground.

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