Squamish-based Stu Smith has established Commence the Hate, a new 5.13a roof crack he compared to Zombie Roof 5.12. The hard new route is found at Hunter Creek, which is a popular area for bouldering.
“The route is pretty dang cool,” said Smith, “5.10ish climbing up vertical ground get you to a deep alcove where, using funky heel-toe cams and toe hooks, you enter the crack.”
“It starts with rattley fingers at the back of a deep flare, which won’t let you twist your hands to get a lock,” said Smith. “Instead you have to flex your hands to stay in.
“This is my crux. I can get your left pointer finger into a horrible lock only going as deep as just past the finger nail. I get a toe hook and at this point I’m hanging my entire body weight off of a finger tip.”
“Once you pull through to a decent right hand jam, the feet cut and stab for another better hand. At this point you’re are at the lip of the roof which is a long and rounded.
“After the the two hand jams, the crack widens to a slightly over hung/vertical off-width before the anchor. It’s a full workout and such a crazy feature the photos I have don’t do it justice.”
Smith has been a leading developer of difficult routes in Squamish for some time. This winter, he made the first ascent of Magic Crystals 5.12b at the Smoke Bluffs. Watch the send here. Follow Smith on Instagram here.