The newest of three bold routes to be established on the southwest face of Rånkeipen in Norway was just climbed by Finnish climber Juho Knuuttila and Swede Joda Dolmans. Knuuttila has been on each of the three first ascents.
On Jan. 16, they teamed up for the FA of Northern Twilight, a three-pitch M7 WI6 which started with drytooling into steep and technical terrain in a corner. The main semi-hanging ice dagger required committing moves, which led to the final mixed pitch that had a hand jam.
The wall of rock and ice is found above the Arctic Circle, around 35 kilometres from Narvik in northern Norway. No climbers attempted any routes on the impressive wall until this winter when Knuuttila and Alex Nordvall established Arctic Circus M6 WI6.
Knuuttila returned alone and impressively established Polar Vortex M6 WI6 alone while rope-soloing. Read about his solo here. To access the wall requires several rappels accessed after hiking the popular trail up the peak. Once you pull the ropes, you’re fully committed to climbing back out.