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Patagonia, Psycho Vertical and a Second Ascent

Psycho Vertical on Torre Egger was first climbed nearly three decades ago.

Korra Pesce reported on social media that he and four others made the impressive second ascent of the 1986 route. At the 2015 Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival, famous climber Simone Moro said that the future of alpinism is as much about making second ascents of the old routes as it is about climbing new ones.

The difficult route up the southeast face of Torre Egger was first climbed by Janez Jeglic, Silvo Karo and Knez Francek. The route was as much of a directissima as anything in Patagonia. It starts up a dangerous couloir and leads to a steep series of cracks and dihedrals and in total is the size of The Nose in Yosemite.

The first ascent team fixed ropes and after their climb, Karo wrote, “We must admit that our triumph was only possible because of the network of fixed ropes.

“Taking into consideration the height of the faces and the rapid and unpredictable weather changes, it is almost impossible to climb in pure alpine style. The proof is that almost all routes in Patagonia have been first done with fixed ropes.

“Some day the routes may be climbed free, solo and in one day. This is a natural development, a kind of staircase where every new step follows the older ones.”

Pesce, along with Roland Striemitzer, Tomy Aguilo, Inaki Coussirat and Carlitos Molina climbed Psycho Vertical in pure alpine style. Pesce, who is one of Chamonix’s top climbers said, “It is perhaps the hardest route I have ever climbed.”

Read an in-depth interview with Pesce at Planet Mountain, here.

EpicTV Interviews Korra Pesce: Chamonix’s Underground Badass from EpicTVAdventure on Vimeo.