There are reports of chipping and torching going on in the Squamish boulders and locals aren’t happy.
Chipping is when climbers use chisels or drills to enhance a hold. Torching is when climbers use blow torches to dry damp/wet holds for better friction.
For those who don’t know, chipping and torching rock climbs, boulders and projects is an absolute no.
This is the first confirmed boulder that we know of in Squamish to be chipped. Hopefully it is the last… On a recent trip, Randy Puro revisited this old project of his and mentioned it felt different, that perhaps it had been chipped. It was confirmed by some locals and is obviously as seen in the photo. One of the most beautiful, unclimbed lines, has been altered to fix the needs of some turd without vision, too weak to send it as it was. I doubt if the person responsible for this act will step forth but for the record, 99% of the climbing community does not condone chipping. Chipping is NOT ok. Vandalism in a provincial park is NOT ok. Chipping is vandalism. This action is a complete disrespect to the rock, the forest and to those trying it. What has come of climbing and the respect we should have on the outdoors? I had hoped we moved past this sort of act. Leaving tick marks and garbage is one thing but this..? This beauty should have been left as it was. For those strong enough to do it. For those with vision. FYI- this problem is the project on the Octagon boulder, to the right of beyond 4 and Shelter. Word is, Shelter might also have been altered. Yet to be confirmed. If anyone has information on this, please come forth. It is safe to assume it was done by someone strong enough to even entertain climbing it, which really narrows it down… 🤬 @randypuro . . #chippedrock #notokay #boulderingethics #itspossible #project #squamishboulders #squamishbouldering #squeezejob #chipped #dreamtheimpossiblepossible #climbing #squamishclimbing #boulderingproject #oneday #getstronger #protect #granite #rock #beautifulrock @metoliusclimbing @grippedmagazine @rockrespect
Bill Ramsey wrote an article in 2012 called Making the Grade, which digs into the deeper philosophy of chipping. He notes that some of the world’s most classic routes have been chipped, such as Just Do It 5.14c (America’s hardest route at the time) in Smith Rock and The Rose and the Vampire in France (the world’s first 5.13d).
In it, he says, ” The problem with this argument is that it has nothing to do with the issue. Of course, most things done badly are bad. But that has nothing to do with the propriety of the practice done responsibly. Note that few people think the existence of bad bolting entails the need to abolish all bolting.
“Route preparers who engage in irresponsible and gratuitous manufacturing await the same condemnation as those who engage in irresponsible and gratuitous bolting. Because my argument is a defense of the limited sort of manufacturing described above, the possibility of other kinds of manufacturing is largely irrelevant. Remember that irresponsible manufacturing sometimes occurs now; our current condemnation hasn’t prevented it from happening.”
Chipping holds is not accepted in Squamish and those climbers who are doing it should stop. The granite in the area is a finite resource and once a problem is chipped, it’s damaged forever.
To the selfish idiot who chipped these holds in Squamish: You are a selfish idiot!!! You are not welcome in Squamish. Go away. Don’t come back. Over 22 years of bouldering history and thousands of boulder problems in Squamish. None of them chipped. The best climbers in Squamish and visitors from around the world have always had plenty to do without chipping. People have travelled far to try this futuristic low start. Now you’ve wrecked it. You are not welcome in Squamish. Go away. Don’t come back. If anyone knows anything or sees someone trying this, please document it and pass it along. #squamishbouldering #squamishclimbing #squamish #bouldering #climbing #granite
Blow torch soot on Tim’s Sloper Problem in Squamish. It’s winter. It’s wet. Torching was a technique some people tried years ago and quickly abandoned. The intense, localized heat causes holds to expand faster than the surrounding rock. Crack! TORCHING BREAKS HOLDS! Torching is the manslaughter of chipping. You are still responsible and you are still guilty. If you really want to dry a hold, Makita makes a nice cordless blower that will do the job and not heat the holds. Otherwise, climb out in the open talus by the Apron where it dries faster. Otherwise, climb inside. Otherwise, climb in the desert. You have options. 📷 @islandtrailphotography #squamishbouldering #squamishclimbing #squamish #bouldering #climbing #granite