Rock Climbing Weekly Update #4: 5.14 Sends and New Ontario V13
Yves Gravelle opens a new V13 in Calabogie, as Adam Ondra gets skunked on a new hard boulder
There’s a lot to cover in the world of rock climbing, so we’re bringing it to you in a quick-to-read story that highlights some of the most noteworthy sends and misses of the week. For indoor-only climbing, visit Gripped Indoors and for paddling, camping, skiing and hiking visit Gripped Outdoors.
In Canada, climbers aren’t doing much travelling this spring due to Covid-19, but for those who live near outdoor climbing it’s been high times. At Echo Beach in Cheakamus Canyon, a new 5.13b called Trenchancy is one of the shortest bolted routes in Canada, said to be a V7/8 on a rope. Also in B.C. Simon Yamamoto sent Nexus 6 5.14a in Skaha. A new V11 was added to Vancouver Island’s Sunny Side near Nanaimo called Twilight Run, a V10 called Venic by Ryan Postle at Jordan River.
In Alberta, Dexter Bateman repeated Freedom in Chains 5.13c at Bataan, and in McGillivray Canyon, Mason Tessier sent The New Normal 5.13a. He said, “Super fun with a sustained finish on the prickly stuff.” Jake Tiger climbed Mon Cal V10 at Big Rock south of Calgary, and noted, “Best boulder I’ve done in Alberta so far. Ended up going with the toe hook beta because it felt easier. I have to come back and do straight compression, burly style with no right toe hook, more of a challenge and how I was trying it originally. It felt greasy today but glad it went. Ran out of storage on the phone recording the initial send burn, but luckily I could clear some storage and had enough gas in the tank to send it off the very next burn. You should do the top out for the full experience, it’s easy and satisfying.”
In Ontario, Nicholas Carroll, who climbed Titan 5.14a last year, repeated American Beauty 5.13b at Crag Y saying that it might be a 5.13a. And Yves Gravelle made the first ascent of The Ultimate Chad V13 at Calabogie. Gravelle said that there’s a lot of development going on in the area. At Morin-Heights in Quebec, Emile Baril made the first ascent of Saroumane, and Corinne Baril climbed Le Sherif V10. And at Mont Belle-Neige, Seb Lazure made the likely first ascent of Pegboard V10.
Internationally, Stefano Ghioslfi made the first repeat of Ring of Life in Italy, a 55-move 5.15a after three days of working on it in April. It was first climbed in 2014 by Silvio Reffo. Samuel Ometz repeated Dave Graham’s Coup de Grace 5.14d in Ticino.
Analise Van Hoang sent her first V12 in March called Bayview Crimp at Mount Tam after three goes. She then ticked A Maze of Death in Bardini Boulders, also V12. Jonathan Siegrist repeated James Litz’s Ace of Spades 5.15a in Poptire.
Katie Lamb has sent her seventh V13 with Chinese Connection in Mortar Rock. She said, “Test-piece and a king line in its own special, crumbly way. The most beautiful spring day in the Bae with Berkeley legends. Natalia Grossman repeated Euro Roof Low Low V13 in Little Cottonwood. She said, “First go, second session. This climb truly has some amazing movement. I guess it is time to go deeper in the cave.”
Adam Ondra made the first ascent of Yorkshire V14 and tried The Edge problem, but couldn’t do it. A few weeks later Martin Stranik made the first ascent, which Ondra a hard V14. And Giuliano Cameroni climbed Jimmy Webb’s La Rustica V16 in Valle Bavona.
In Yosemite, climbers will have to get a permit to spend a night or nights on any of the big walls in the park. For the full story visit here.
Chinese Connection by Lamb
The Edge Problem
Ring of Life
Weekly Updates: Ice Season 2020/21, Rock 1, Rock 2, Rock 3
Access: Many climbing areas in Canada are currently in areas where Covid-19 restrictions are limiting travel. Don’t travel for rock climbing right now, it could risk future access. Be sure to follow your local access group: Squamish, Kootenays, Alberta, Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia, Newfoundland. For tips on how to be a good steward of the land visit here.
Gear and Tips: For spring rock climbing gear, check out the best climbing harnesses for 2021 and the best cams for 2021. For safety, here are five reasons to wear a helmet, tips to be a better bouldering spotter and 10 tips for a more fun spring. Always wear a helmet!