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Steep Yosemite 5.13d Crack Gets Rare Repeat

Jordan Cannon makes the sixth known free ascent of Wet Lycra Nightmare on Leaning Tower in Yosemite

Jordan Cannon has repeated Wet Lycra Nightmare, a nine-pitch 5.13d on Leaning Tower in Yosemite, the wall is one of the steepest granite faces in North America.

“Once on the wall, I redpointed the entire route over two days, sleeping by myself on Ahwanhee Ledge and leading every pitch first try except for the 5.13d roof, which took me two attempts at the end of day one before I sent it on my first attempt at the beginning of day two,” said Cannon. ” That being said, I still had to fight for my life to send the last three 5.13 pitches to the top.”

Todd Skinner and Jim Hewett made the first ascent in 2004. The hard route is the free variation to Wet Denim Daydream 5.6 A3, a 1977 Darrell Hatton and Angus Thuermer route. Alex Honnold made the second known free ascent of Wet Lycra Nightmare in 2015, and after his send said, “Such a great day of climbing on some of the steepest rock in Yosemite. Always a pleasure being out with good friends.”

Cannon has an impressive list of ticks to his name, including the second ascent of The Giraffe V 5.13bR on El Gran Trono Blanco in Mexico; a free ascent of the Freerider VI 5.13a on El Capitan leading every pitch in 14.5 hours; a free ascent of Airstream V 5.13b on The Incredible Hulk in the High Sierra; a free ascent of Golden Gate VI 5.13b on El Capitan and a link-up of The Nose of El Capitan and the Regular NW Face of Half Dome in 16 hours with Alex Honnold back in 2018.

Cannon said that, “Of course, none of this would have been possible without support from my climbing partner Sam Stroh, who did the fifth ascent last spring, and my good friends Sam and Max behind the lens.”