Danny Parker has made the third ascent of the offwidth called Century Crack 5.14b in Utah.
The monster roof crack was first climbed by Wide Boyz Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker in 2011 with the gear in place. They returned later and sent it placing gear on lead.
Whittaker said after, “This time I definitely felt like I had to fight on the route and certainly felt like my endurance on this particular style of climbing had dropped. However, I never felt like I was going to fall, I just know I had to try flipping hard this time. Although I was so happy to top out on the route placing gear on lead, the experience this time wasn’t as satisfying for me as when I initially did it.”
My first offwidth experience happened simultaneously with the Wideboyz free ascent of Century Crack. Their story spoke to me, and although I had just projected a 40’ 5.9, the dream of climbing Century Crack was alive. Though these years I’ve been slowly chipping away at their tick list, making minuscule improvements, building a crack room in my garage, and maybe completing a zillion sit ups. This Wednesday I lived the dream, and climbed Century Crack. I feel battered and overwhelmed with happiness, and am filled with gratitude for Tom and Pete. They not only inspired me, but they came full circle and gave me the training plan they used for Century (turns out it’s effective). I’m so grateful for my wife Ashley, who supported and encouraged me through this process. Alright, time to eat pizza:) Photo 1 by Jon Vickers @jonvickersclimbs working a pinkpoint a couple weeks ago. Video 2 and 3 taken by @ashleyreva . #offwidtharmy #8bplus #blackdiamondequipment #butora #butorausa
Randall said the following after the first first ascent on UKclimbing.com, “Yesterday, Pete and I completed a 2 year long journey – a mission to make the first ascent of Stevie Haston’s infamous Century Crack project in the Utah Desert.
“This route has been touted over the years as the ultimate wide crack monster and the potential first free ascensionist would grasp a prize beyond their wildest dreams.”
The route was found by crack climber Crusher Bartlett in 2001, who aided across the crack solo, employing a back rope only for the final barrel and lip turn. “This in itself was a considerable achievement considering the committing nature of the area and the horrendous exposure on the final section. Crusher gave the aid line the name of Chocolate Starfish, A1.”