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Wild New WI6+ Climbed Over Lake Superior

Quentin Roberts made the first ascent of Lion Queen up a steep ice feature after a successful Michigan Ice Festival

Photo by: Tim Banfield

Some of North America’s most experienced ice and mixed climbers gathered last weekend at the Michigan Ice Festival. Of all of the climbs that went down, a new WI6+ above Lake Superior might be the most impressive.

Lion Queen was climbed by Quentin Roberts solo above crashing waves up a hanging dagger of coloured ice. The route weaves a line up steep rock and wild ice to the lip of a shoreline cliff. It’s surely one of the most technical ice climbs in Michigan.

Roberts made the first ascents a few days after soloing the classic On the Rocks WI6, while Marr Cornell soloed HMR WI5 and Jackson Marvell soloed After Midnight WI5+. Photographer Tim Banfield was on hand to capture the moment on video, which you can watch below.

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Lead photo: Tim Banfield