84 Videos From the 1990s of Canada’s Most Legendary Climbers to be Released
Chic Scott travelled across Canada and interviewed dozens of climbers to complete his now-famous book Pushing the Limits. The Whyte Museum has digitized those videos
In 1996 and 1997 while researching for his book Pushing the Limits, Banff-based historian Chic Scott videotaped 84 interviews across Canada with the leading climbers of the era about their pursuits here in the great Canadian mountain ranges and also their climbs around the world.
For 25 years those interviews were safely stored in the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies in Banff, Alberta. Through recent efforts of the Whyte Museum Archives, they have been digitized and revitalized. These digitized interviews will be incorporated into a multimedia project entitled Pushing the Limits: The Legacy which will launch in various stages over the next several years. Three main components comprise the legacy project.
Digitized raw interviews serve as the foundation of the legacy project, which will eventually be made available to the general public through the Whyte Archives website. Working with Canmore filmmaker Glen Crawford, 11 of the best interviews will be selected and edited with supporting archival photos. These enhanced interviews will also be made available online. Selected digitized interviews will culminate in a series of several theme-based films relating to Canadian mountaineering which will launch over the next several years.
The legacy project and film series kicks off with Climbing Pioneers of Yamnuska, starring Hans Gmoser, Leo Grillmair, Franz Dopf, Brian Greenwood, Don Vockeroth, Dick Lofthouse and Urs Kallen.
The film will premiere online on Dec. 11, 2021 – International Mountain Day here. Climbing Pioneers of Yamnuska is about Iyamnathka, the “flat-faced mountain” on the eastern edge of the Rocky Mountains, overlooking the prairies, which has been sacred to the Stoney People for millennia. More recently, the mountain, now known as Yamnuska, has become special to thousands of rock climbers. Since the early fifties many climbing routes have been established up the south face.
Using interviews videotaped by Chic Scott in the 1990s, this film tells the story of those climbing pioneers and their adventures — Leo Grillmair, Hans Gmoser, Franz Dopf, Brian Greenwood, Don Vockeroth, Dick Lofthouse and Urs Kallen. This film was generously sponsored by Dr. Bill Hanlon and Lake Louise Ski Resort. “I am so pleased to see that these interviews that I recorded so long ago will now be available to the public online — they are a wonderful window on a bygone era,” said Scott.
“There are several interviews with men in their 90s while the youngest climbers interviewed are in their 30s. There are interviews with men and women from British Columbia, Alberta, Ontario and Quebec — ice climbers, alpinists, Himalayan climbers and sport climbers. The interviews are a snapshot of climbing as it was in the 1990s. It is now a great treasure and irreplaceable. This interview project was originally sponsored by Hans Gmoser who saw the potential value of it down the road. This is his legacy too.”
About the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies
The Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies inspires discovery and wonder when people and the Rocky Mountains meet. Our founders, Peter Whyte and Catharine (Robb) Whyte, were local artists and philanthropists.
Peter and Catharine wished to offer a place where people could gather and appreciate the culture and beauty of the area. Our programming is made possible through generous support from the Museum’s members, donors, and sponsors.
About Chic Scott
It has been over 50 years since Chic Scott discovered the magic of high places. During a lifetime of adventure he has climbed and skied around the world, organized clubs and foundations, written books and worked as a mountain guide. His odyssey has taken him from the icefields of the Canadian Rockies to the historic climbs of the European Alps, from the grandeur of the Himalaya to the icy solitude of Mount Logan. In all seasons, on foot and on skis he has followed his passion.
Chic now resides in Banff, Alberta where he earns his living writing books and magazine articles and giving presentations on mountain topics. When not at his computer Chic can be found hiking, skiing, or climbing in the nearby Rocky Mountains, or perhaps sitting around the fire at one of the ACC huts telling stories.
About Pushing the Limits: The Story of Canadian Mountaineering
Originally published in 2000, Pushing the Limits tells the story of Canada’s 200 year mountaineering history from the early pioneers to modern day climbing athletes. Discover the story of Canadian climbing from the crags to the gyms, from Squamish to Val David and from the Yukon to the Rockies. Read about the Swiss guides hired by Canadian Pacific Hotels who ushered in the glory years of the first ascents. Discover the British and American men of leisure who struggled with the wilderness to reach the summits and unravel the complex geography.
Learn about the European immigrants of the 1950s who pushed the limits on the rock walls and the Americans who led the search for frightening new routes on the north faces. Join the British expatriates as they pioneer the exciting new sport of waterfall ice climbing. Then witness the popular growth in sport climbing both on the crags and in the gyms. Finally discover how home grown Canadian climbers, initially slow to take up the challenge of mountaineering, have become world leaders in the sport.
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