American Climber and Guide Lou Whittaker Dies at 95
He was one of the most influential mountain guides and mountaineers of his generation
Photo by: RMI Expeditions
Lou Whittaker, one of America’s most iconic mountain guides and climbers, has died at the age of 95. It was announced by RMI Expeditions, the company that Whittaker founded in 1969 by the name Rainier Mountaineering Inc, that he died peacefully at home.
“Mountains were the source of his health, the wellspring of his confidence, and the stage for his triumphs, and he was one of the first to make mountaineering and its benefits accessible to the broader public,” the RMI, which is now owned by his son Peter, said in statement. “His leadership made mountain guiding a true profession, with many of the world’s premier mountaineers benefiting from Lou’s tutelage.”
Whittaker, whose twin brother Jim became the first American to climb Everest in 1963, led the first American ascent of Everest via the north col in 1984. He also took part in expeditions K2 and Denali during his most active years as a mountaineer. Whittaker went on to become one of the most influential mountain guides of all time, leading more than 250 trips to the summit of Rainier.
The two brothers served in the Army’s Mountain and Cold Weather camp in Colorado where they trained soldiers in the 10th Mountain Division and improved rescue techniques. Whittaker rescued dozens of climbers over the years and survived several avalanches.
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In 1983, Whittaker told The Associated Press, “Climbing isn’t fatalities. Climbing is the rewards you get from it, the enjoyment and the health that you get from going out.” Then in 1989, he told a reported for the Seattle Times who asked him why he climbs mountains, “If you have to ask, you wouldn’t understand if I told you.”
Whittaker stopped climbing before he turned 80, but his ascents will continue to inspire climbers for generations to come. He is survived by his brother Jim; his wife, Ingrid; his sons, Peter and Win; three grandchildren and two great-grandchildren. Our condolences to Whittaker’s family and friends.
Lou and Peter Talk Risk
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