Climbing Club Donates Historic Archives

The Calgary Mountain Club (CMC), has donated its collection of mountaineering archives to the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies. The CMC is one of most renowned mountaineering clubs in Canada and holds the records for many first ascents of the hardest major peaks in the Canadian Rockies. This donation included a collection of articles, photographs and logbooks
dating back to 1960 and filled with handwriten descriptions of first ascents – written by the climbers who accomplished the feats.

Many are accompanied by stories and artwork also created by the climbers, produced while huddled in a tent or hut near their climb. The works of people like Billy Davidson, John Lauchlan, Don Vockeroth, Brian Greenwood, Klaus Hahn and many others feature prominently.

As well, the donated archives include many original photographs from that era and the original constitution and meeting minutes for the CMC. A previous donation from Chic Scott included a complete set of CMC newsleters, also dating back to 1960 and covering many notable ascents (and celebrations) since that time.

“The history of the CMC is woven into the modern history of climbing in the Canadian Rockies. The club had some of the strongest climbers of the time and many of their routes pushed the limits of what was possible. I am really pleased that the club’s archive of historic documents will now have a secure home at the Whyte Museum where all researchers can have access to them,” said renowned mountaineer and historian Chic Scott.

The Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies inspires discovery and wonder when people and the Rocky Mountains meet. The founders, Peter and Catharine Whyte, were local artists and philanthropists. They wished to offer a place where people could gather and appreciate the culture and beauty of the area.

Megan Baxter, CMC’s membership director said that while attending an Avalanche Canada symposium, one of the speakers advised that the best way to learn about avalanches was to “find an old guy who’s survived years in the backcountry and hang on to them because they must be doing something right. I knew then that I had to join the CMC. The club provides an incredible opportunity for younger generations to learn from pioneers in climbing in the Rockies, and looking through the incredible donated materials shows just how influential and groundbreaking the club has been over the years. Routes I’m projecting now were first ascended by these guys in the 60’s-80’s – and age hasn’t slowed them down.”

Ken Wiens, CMC’s Director of Communications echoed, “I joined the CMC when I started climbing in 1974 and I learned that this club was home to the unsung heroes of Canadian Mountaineering, and I had just discovered the motherlode of mountaineering experience. There were no formal training programs for new climbers back then – so the best way to learn was to cling on, literally, to these bold pioneers of Rockies’ first ascents. The materials we are now donating to the Whyte Museum capture the routes and adventures of these early activists and can now be preserved for future generations to enjoy and learn from.”

Keith Grimes, CMC President, has been involved with the club since 2001 and describes it as his home away from home. He was first attracted to the Club due to its rich history of phenomenal climbers and their bold ascents in the Rockies – and around the world, and has lead the board for the past three years. He describes this archival donation as one of the most significant moments during his time on the board.

“I feel this step is a significant point in the Club’s history to have taken our records, previously only available to CMC members – protecting, preserving and now making them available to the public through the Whyte Museum Archives,” Grimes said. “There is such an incredible wealth of information within, and they have been treasured for decades by the CMC. Now these are available for everyone to see. One could spend many hours in the research room at the Whyte pouring over the stories of so many first ascents and wild times in the Rockies. Without Chic safeguarding the documents for so many years today would not be possible. A huge thank you to Chic and to the Whyte Museum for making this moment possible!”

 

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