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New Splitter Two-Pitch 5.11 in Squamish

The Never Ending Traverse climbs a fine line in the Dihedrals

Kyle Smith has reported about a nice looking two-pitch route that he established in the Dihedrals on The Chief in Squamish. It’s one of many new Sea-to-Sky routes this summer.

Smith, a B.C. climbing photographer, describes it as a “long two-pitch climb that would be a good pairing with Rutabaga” and that it starts 10 metres slightly right and uphill from Deadend Dihedral.

The first pitch is a 50-metre 5.11b with six bolts that starts up Slow Dyke, first climbed by Peter Croft in 1982. “I only added two bolts to the dyke traverse,” said Smith. “Peter left the route very bold and it became severely overgrown. By adding two bolts to the traverse I hope more people will climb the route. It reduces some of the seriousness of the route, but there is still sections of heady climbing, with minimal gear through the traverse. A Peter Croft special.”

Once on the forested ledge, traverse right about nine metres to the start of pitch two. The second pitch is 27 metres and goes at 5.10d. Find one bolt below a traversing crack to start. “Follow the traversing crack to base of cedar tree,” said Smith. “Sling tree and make cruxy moves into a thin crack on the left of tree. Follow the splitter crack to the anchor. Rap from here.”

For gear, Smith said to bring a single 60-metre rope and rack to four inches. “A few double in finger and hand sizes could be useful and 12 alpine draws.” For more info visit here.