Andy Genereux is one of the Rockies most accomplished route developers with thousands of new pitches to his name, including routes throughout the Rockies and in the Selkirks. He has a number of published guidebooks, including one on Yamnuska and one on the Ghost.

In August, he began work on a new route on the McGillivray Slabs near Heart Mountain in the Bow Valley, which he completed in the fall. The new route is a 10-pitch 5.10c bolted route that climbs 334 metres of mostly solid limestone. He called it Old Man Rules.

“This moderate multi-pitch sport climb is found on the east facing rock face located on the righthand side of the big bowl at the upper left of McGillivary Slabs,” wrote Genereux on his topo page. “All hardware was installed on lead.” For the Old Man Rules topo and description visit TABVAR on Facebook here.

McGillivray Slabs left / Andy Genereux

McGillivray Slabs

McGillivray Slabs have a number of fun routes, including Morningside (topo), a four-pitch bolted 5.8, and Raspberry Ramble, a mixed-protection 5.9. The slabs are east facing and just before Dead Man’s Flat when driving west. The approach is about 15 minutes to the popular climbs.

Last year, Gripped editor Brandon Pullan climbed a new route to the right of the new Old Man Rules with Savanna Manning that he called Tennessee Bushwhackin’, but there’s no fixed protection and the 5.9 pitches have runout gear. If you’re looking for a nice gear climb, consider Kahl Crack left of Morningside.

Be sure to visit Genereux’s website here for more new routes information and guidebook beta.

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