Royal Robbins Book Wins Banff Fest Award

A new book about Royal Robbins by David Smart was chosen by jurors to be the winner of this year’s Banff Mountain Book Festival climbing literature award. Royal Robbins: The American Climber chronicles the climber’s early years growing up as a kid in Southern California, the push and pull between being an aspiring banker or one of the original Camp 4 dirtbags, and his later decades as a father, husband, kayaker, and the trailblazing founder of the outdoor apparel company that bears his name.

“It is rare to read an account of a legend that measures up to the individual, capturing visionary character in human and place with clear insight to an era,” said Jennifer Lowe-Anker of the book jury. “David Smart gives us an evocative, intimate view of Royal Robbins, the man, his exceptional position in the history of American climbing and his vast resume of classic and timeless ascents.”

Royal Robbins was one of America’s greatest big wall rock climbers during the golden age of Yosemite rock climbing. He pushed the limits of aid and free climbing, ushering in an approach and style that inspired generations of wall climbing enthusiasts. The American Climber gives a tour of his climbing history, covering Yosemite, the Tetons, the Gunks, the Alps, the United Kingdom, and more from the 1960s onward. It features star characters such as Liz Robbins, Yvon Chouinard, John Harlin, Steve Roper, Warren Harding, Tom Frost, and Doug Tompkins. We touched base with Smart to hear about his new book below.

Royal Robbins: The American Climber is now in the running for the grand prize at the Banff Mountain Festival at the end of October. To see the other book festival winners for 2023 visit here. Order Royal Robbins: The American Climber here.