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Seven Awesome V5s in Squamish

Problems to add to your tick-list for winter sessions or next spring

If you’re a V5 climber, you’ll be a kid in a candy store in Squamish. There are more V5s than any other grade in the guidebook’s Top 100 problems and on top of those, there are 3- and 4-star problems that would be classics elsewhere.

The list below highlights seven awesome V5s from three different areas and six different sectors.

Grand Wall

1. Viper (Viper)

Essentially in the centre of the Grand Wall boulders, this overhanging fin is super fun to wrestle with. The business is off the ground, requiring “smooth power” according to local Mark Fraser. This mega-classic gives the sector its name.

Gary Siu on Viper V5 in Squamish. Photo by Migüel Jetté, 2008

2. Tim’s Sloper Problem (Thighmaster)

Though Squamish locals (including Tim) can do laps on this problem, it shuts a lot of people down. It’s well worth the effort to work on your mantling skills on this classic. Climb through a steep section, hit some slopers over the lip and figure out how to get high enough to flip your hand and press it out.

Bonnie de Bruijn on Tim’s Sloper Problem V5 in Squamish. Photo by Migüel Jetté, 2009.

North Wall Boulders

3. Japanese Cowboy (The Clean Boulders)

A tad harder for the short climber, but this right-leaning crimp rail climbs as good as it looks.

Stephanie Hsie on Japanese Cowboy V5, in Squamish. Photo by Chris Wong @chrisburkewong

4. Space Monkey (The Magic Kingdom)

This amazing problem has it all – an overhang, an arête, slopers, pinches and slots. Heel-hook, slap, compress and dead-point with power and accuracy.

Kenna Wurden-Foster on Space Monkey V5, in Squamish. Photo by Chris Wong @chrisburkewong
Heath Brackett topping out Space Monkey V5, in Squamish. Photo by Chris Wong @chrisburkewong

5. Re-up (Lower Sheriff’s Badge Trail)

This problem is under-rated with only 3-stars (given perhaps because you have to avoid the right arête until the top). But the movement on this technical boulder is stellar and there are a few different ways to do it.

Paradise Valley

6. The Force (Rock Lady)

A short but challenging vertical face climb on the action packed Rock Lady boulder. Small edges, bad feet, and (for those who can’t reach up), a crazy but oh-so-satisfying high left heel that gets you to a decent pinch and a beauty, high back-step to the finishing hold.

7. The Crystal Method (Rock Lady)

This problem is situated in one of the most magical settings in Squamish. Near a river of crystal clear water lies this boulder face, slightly inclined with decent edges. On the easier side of the grade for tall climbers but really fun, classic bouldering moves regardless. Bring a few pads to stash in the hole below.

Mandoline Clark on Crystal Method V5 in Paradise Valley, Squamish, 2019.