Slovenians Climb New 5.12 A3 Up Saint Exupéry in Patagonia
They spent two days on the face and climbed 500 metres of new terrain
Slovenian alpinists Luka Lindic and Luka Krajnc climbed a new 700-metre 5.12/7a+ A3 up Aguja Saint Exupéry in Patagonia from Feb. 20 to 22. They called their new route Mir, which is Peace in English.
They started up Petit Prince then moved away into a splitter crack system through overhangs and the crux. They climbed 15 new pitches away from Petit Prince and bivied on pitch nine and 16. For gear, they brought a double set of cams to #4, one each to #6, two sets of TCUs, stoppers, RPs, five peckers, three angles, seven lost arrows, three knifeblades and two hooks. They only placed one bolt.
Due to the steepness of the face, it would’ve been too difficult to rappel their route, so from the summit they descended the Italiana. As Rolando Garibotti pointed on in his Instagram post, Mir was first attempted in 1998 by Marcelo Galghera and Horacio Gratton.