Spiral Galaxy is a Classic Northwestern Ontario Trad Route

Ontario has some of the best climbing in eastern Canada and much of that can be found along the north shore of Lake Superior. The rolling hills of the Nor’ Westers mountains have many steep rock faces that provide in-your-face and casual climbing. Close to the city of Thunder Bay, along the shores of Brule Bay, are a number of buttresses that rise from the boreal forest. The rock is basalt, but more specifically it’s diabase and it provides climbers with edges and cracks to climb.

Up the final buttress along a one-lane dirt road next to Brule Bay is a stunning two-pitch 5.8 that was first climbed back in the 1981 by Shaun Parent and Scott Kress. Spiral Galaxy is steep, stout and full of fun moves, and is one of the most classic routes in the area. The views across the lake to Pie Island and Sleeping Giant are stunning and the descent is one rappel. The route is one of many in the Chiller Pillar area.

The anchor at the end of the first pitch was recently bolted, which caused some controversy because of the many cracks for gear. However, after some local discussion, it was agreed that the bolts were a good addition to the route. The first pitch has some committing moves before you can get any protection, but the holds are solid. Pulling the arete onto the east-facing rock is a thrill. The wide crack at the start of the second pitch is challenging, but after a few moves you’ll be in a locker finger crack with good feet.

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When spring comes in Thunder Bay, snowshoes become an essential piece of equipment. The contrast between the sun heating up the rocks and the frigid snow covered ground makes for a very unique experience. In the photo Kyle Norman @c.k_william_ leads up the first pitch of Spiral Galaxy, a mega classic in the area. This climb offers good exposure while winding around a beautiful crack system which makes for a perfect multipitch introduction. . . . #squawbay #lakesuperior #pieisland #spiralgalaxy #tradisrad #climbing #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #northernontarioclimber #explorenorthernontario #timetoclimb #onbelay #doitrightthefirstime #spring #climbon #climbing_is_my_passion #getoutside #bemoreneedless #tradclimbing #liveclimbrepeat

A post shared by Joshua Ferguson (@jdfergus) on Feb 15, 2017 at 8:10pm PST

Spiral Galaxy Beta

Approach: From Brule Bay Road, follow the dirt road for three kilometres and park in a pull-out on the right. Head up past trees and big talus to the base of the wall and then south for small bay below the start of the route on the right.
Pitch one: Follow the crack on the left for a few moves before moving right through varying crack sizes that lead to big holds on the arete. Make exposed moves right to slabby cracks and laybacks. Then jam your left fingers in the ledge crack and mantle. (5.8, 17 metres)
Pitch two: Place a high piece of pro and take on the crux. There are some locker moves and sneaky feet, but if you miss them then this will feel like 5.10. After the crux, move right and up crack until an obvious move left to more cracks. Pass hollow flakes (haven’t come out in 38 years) and move left and up to the anchor. (5.8, 17 metres)
Descent: Rappel off the chains down Beam Me Up Scotty in 30 metres.

Other Chiller Pillar Routes

Space Walk: a fun two-pitch 5.8 crack line
Beam Me Up Scotty: Five-star mixed route at 5.10a
Cam-A-Lot: Stunning 70-metre 5.10a corner crack/chimney
Stuffin’ Martha’s Muffin: Sandbagged 5.10c finger crack
Pokey Puppy: Mega classic 5.10c two-pitch line
Pokey Kitty: Like Pokey Puppy but pumpier
Autochthone: Long and sustained modern 5.10c classic
American Demon: Three-pitch 5.8 A2+ waiting to be freed