The Titan Climbs Massive Squamish Roof at 5.13c

The Titan was first climbed by Matt Maddaloni in 2010 at 5.13c, it climbs the biggest granite roof in Squamish. The monster cave line is unrepeated as of spring 2019.

A 5.12 thin-crack leads to the roof, which consists of 10 metres of slightly overhanging climbing before entering a chimney at the actual roof. The steep climbing continues for 17 more metres requiring gymnastic crack and sport climbing tactics before reaching the first set of anchors. Before it was sent, climbers like Steve Townsend, Tim Emmett, Tony McLane and Marc Andre Leclerc tried it.

The impressive looking route has multiple cruxes and requires a variety of climbing techniques including jamming, armbars, kneebars and sloper strength. “Squamish’s biggest and steepest roof bar none,” said Maddaloni, who’s hoping someone heads out to give it a try.

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West coast crusher Matt Maddaloni @mattmaddaloni on his route The Titan 5.13c in Squamish. It climbs one of the biggest granite caves in western Canada and has no second ascent. Photo @paulbridephotography #climbing #squamish #tradisrad

A post shared by Gripped Magazine (@grippedmagazine) on Jun 12, 2019 at 9:41am PDT

“No second ascent. Small gear to #4 Camalot and bolts. Knee pads mandatory. Chicken wings, dynos, limestone like pockets, knee bars, crimps, power face climbing and crack. Full Squamish adventure. Get after it.”

The impressive route wasn’t included in the new guidebook to Squamish, but you can find the approach beta below.