Three Must-Climb Ice Routes in Montana
Don't miss these three Hyalite Canyon classics on your next ice climbing road trip
Renowned for its challenging ice climbs and stunning natural beauty, Bozeman offers a diverse range of climbs that will test your mettle and technique. One unique feature about climbing in Bozeman is the opportunity to tailgate in Hyalite Canyon. Many of the routes all start from the same parking lot. You can almost be guaranteed to cross paths with other climbers there as long as you don’t have an alpine start or late finish. Here are three must-climb ice routes this winter.
The Scepter: This iconic ice pillar is not just a climb; it’s a rite of passage. Known for its brittle early-season ice, The Scepter challenges climbers with its featured ice and technical WI5 climbing. Success means ticking off one of Hyalite Canyon’s most visually arresting ice structures. Usually, earlier in the season, it is more of a pillar and fills out as more ice forms later in the season to become a WI4. You can easily combine climbing The Scepter with some routes nearby.
The Good Looking One: True to its name, this climb isn’t just about the challenge; it’s about the sheer aesthetic beauty of the ascent. Combining mixed climbing conditions with the chance to scale one of Hyalite Canyon’s most picturesque routes, it’s a favorite among climbers who appreciate nature’s artistry.
Cleopatra’s Needle: A stunning freestanding pillar, Cleopatra’s Needle offers a bit longer climb in Hyalite. The approach is moderate and one to one-and-a-half hours from the car. Expect two to three pitches, depending on how you pitch it out. The second pitch is the crux with sustained steep WI5 climbing.
Check out the latest buyer's guide:
