Watch Historical Repeat of “5.15d” That Ended With Downgrade to 5.15c
This uncut footage of the first repeat of Bibliographie was published today by Stefano Ghisolfi
Stefano Ghisolfi made the second ascent of Bibliographie in France this summer, a year after Alex Megos made the first ascent. Megos graded it 5.15d, Ghisolfi downgraded it to 5.15c.
Ghisolfi had been projecting Bibliographie for a number of months. He’s a six-time world cup winner and had previously climbed Change 5.15c and Perfecto Mundo 5.15c.
Bibliographie was a multi-year project for Megos and is located at the famous Céüse. The name is a nod to Biographie just a few metres to the left, which was one of the first 5.15a lines. Megos famously sent Biographie 5.15a on his try in 2014, and in July this year sent another Céüse line called Pornographie 5.14d in four attempts.
About the grade, Ghisolfi said, “I know I can climb a 9c [5.15d], but for a route to be that grade it needs to be much harder than the existing 9b+s [5.15c’s], and Bibliographie for me isn’t.” Megos replied with, “I underestimated how much of a difference it makes to know you have the right beta. On Bibliographie I thought I had good beta until I came back a season later to completely change it again. And that happened twice. So in the end I probably spent the bigger part of 60 days figuring out beta, changing it again and not being sure that I can do it… I became more and more convinced that it had to be harder than anything I’d ever done before.”
The world’s hardest sport routes include Change 5.15c by Ondra in 2012, La Dura Dura 5.15c by Ondra in 2013, Vasil Vasil 5.15c by Ondra in 2017, Silence 5.15d by Ondra in 2017, Perfecto Mundo by Megos in 2018 and Bibliographie 5.15c by Megos in 2020.
Bibliographie 5.15c Uncut
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