Will Bosi’s Repeat of Burden of Dreams Just Dropped
Watch a new short film featuring the highly sought after second ascent of the world's first V17
After six years with no repeats, U.K. climber Will Bosi repeated Burden of Dreams V17 in Finland. Several other top climbers have given attempts over the years but all have come up short. The problem was first climbed back in 2016 by Nalle Hukkataival after nearly four years and around 4,000 attempts.
Burden of Dreams is a five-move crimp line on an 45-degree overhanging face that resembles board climbing. Everything about the problem is difficult. The holds are small and faced in awkward directions, requiring very specific finger and thumb positions. The moves are long, especially to the final three-finger crimp, necessitating powerful, dynamic movement. And the foot holds are lousy demanding an immense amount of body tension. Another big factor contributing to the lack of repeats is that the problem is located in an obscure location with a short climbing season and finnicky conditions.
Bosi had been training specifically for Burden of Dreams on a plastic replica in Sheffield using 3D printed holds. While the replica is not identical, the training helped and Bosi did the first crux move on his third try and dialled in the other few moves and their tricky footwork. In 2022 alone, he climbed 11 V14s, 12 V15s two V16s, and one V17.
There’s been no shortage of coverage of Burden of Dreams, as some of the world’s best climbers have tried it over the past few months. See more stories on the problem here. Watch Bosi’s send below.
Burden of Dreams Repeat
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