You’re a New Climber, Here’s What to Know
Some tips and tricks for getting out onto the rock
I remember being a new climber in 1997, my first session was in the bouldering area of Joe Rockhead’s in Toronto. I didn’t have a clue about what I was doing, what the climbers were talking about or how to move on the wall. There was no Instagram where climbers shared stories and photos, there were only magazines and journals. With no hashtags or social media, the world of climbing felt much smaller than it does today.
I climbed regularly at gyms and went to Mount Nemo and Rattlesnake to toprope, but I didn’t invest much time into learning about the history of climbing or advanced rope techniques. I had a few posters on my wall with climbers hanging from the edges of tall walls by their fingertips and I went to MEC to peruse the climbing gear section. I felt like a new climber for a few years and didn’t consider myself a real climber until I started to take my friends to the crag, lead the pitches and rig the anchors.
Being a new rock climber in 2019 is much different from in the late 1990s, as you have access to much more information, but just because you follow hardcore climbers on Instagram, that doesn’t replace practice and experience. There are some basics things you need to know to start your life as a climber, and if you’re just starting out, here’s a few tips. Firstly, if you just discovered climbing and have been in the gym all winter, take a course before heading outdoors.
Leading on real stone is very different from on plastic, as there are different hazards, the bolts are more run-out and belaying is more difficult due to fall factors and direction of pull. While many professionals don’t wear helmets in their online images, they do wear them behind the cameras. I’ve been on dozens of photoshoots where a pro climber hides their helmet for those cover-shot moments. Wear a helmet.
Every good rock climber understands the basics of how to build an equalized anchor, how to rappel and how to clean a route. Every year, inexperienced climbers die because they didn’t understand basic rope techniques, so do your mom a favour and be safe. Be a good communicator with your climbing partner and the others at the crag.
To be a rock climber also means you understand the basics of access and crag ethics, like don’t play loud music, leave no trace and don’t park overnight if there are signs saying to not. Have a plan-b because the crag you want to climb at might be busy. Bring the appropriate clothing for the day and have a phone in case something goes wrong.
Climbing is much bigger than it was 25 years ago, but to be a new climber is the same, so be safe, learn about the sport and have fun.
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