Home > Mountain

Big West Coast North Face Gets First Winter Ascent

Brette Harrington and Marc-Andre Leclerc have made the first winter ascent of the north face of Ledge Mountain on Canada’s West Coast.

Ledge Mountain is a 1,964-metre-high satellite peak of Sky Pilot with steep north and south faces. A long ledge rises up the southeast side and gives the mountain its name.

The first ascent was in 1912 by Don Munday, Frank Smith and C. Field. The first winter ascent was on Feb. 4, 1961 by Arnold Shives and Glenn Woodsworth via the ledge.

Harrington and Leclerc climbed the snow-covered Walter/Zenger rock route. They attempted the route in winter once before.

On Instagram, Harrington wrote, “Yesterday we climbed the mountain, summiting at 11 p.m. The mid-February temps were chilly on route and the mixed climbing was often very snowy demanding much digging to find proper protection.

“Some chimneys were entirely filled with perfect Nevé, making for some of the best winter alpine climbing I have ever done.”

In January, Harrington and Kieran Brownie made the first winter ascent of Station D with their first winter ascent of Labour Day Buttress in the Slesse Group.

Harrington is currently on the cover of Gripped magazine in a photo by Brownie.

Leclerc has been spending the winter in the Rockies and on the West Coast. In the Rockies, he and Tom Livingstone attempted the first winter ascent of the north face of Ha Ling twice without a summit.

Check out the latest buyer's guide:

Warm Belay Jackets For Cold Weather Climbing

You'll want to make sure that you have a warm puffy as we head into winter. Here are some great choices