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New Moderate Rockies Multi-Pitch Route

Jay Mills is one of the Rockies regular new-routers and his new moderate looks like a must-climb.

The route is on a 150-metre band of rock across from the Mosquito Creek hostel on the Icefields Parkway. Mills teams up with Steph Kish on July 9 for their first ascent of Proboscisized.

Mills reported the rock was solid and offered plenty of places for protection. With only a 45-minute approach and a fixed descent, Proboscisized is one of the most accessible multi-pitch rock routes along the famous highway between Banff and Jasper.

After a 100-metre fourth-class scramble, you climb an obvious corner for two pitches with a 5.8ish crux at the end. The third-pitch climbs another corner and the final pitch is a “choose your own adventure.”

Mills reports the route is easy to follow. To find the descent, hike north along the scree to a cairn and rappel off pitons and nuts to the forest.

Proboscisized across from the Mosquito Creek hostel. Photo Jay Mills