Squamish climber and route developer Jason Green has made the first ascent of his multi-month project. He he said is the “last great line in the Smoke Bluffs” to be opened. He called it Vulture Culture, a bolted 5.13-.
Green has developed a lot of new rock climbs in and around Squamish over the past decade. He helped establish most of the climbs at the New Delhi Cliff, including La Princess, a seven-pitch 5.12d, and Komagata Maru, a four-pitch 5.12. Some of his most recent new climbs are at the Blind Channel area at the Smoke Bluffs.
“We’ve been cleaning the crag since October as a sort of a family project,” said Green, noting that he, his fiancé and eight-year-old son all had projects. “I rapped down it 15 years ago and thought that maybe it would go, but found that it was on private land.” The area had been abandoned because of access issues, but is now part of the park. As a result, climbers have been revisiting old projects and finding new hard climbs.
“It saw a few failed aid attempts with near ground falls from a few locals in the past,” Green said. “I’ve been working it since November between rainstorms. It’s a quick drying route only a quick bike ride away.” Green said that he put in around a dozen redpoint burns. “It’s quite a unique feature and climbs beautifully – technical underclinging.”
Watch a video by below from FreeFlash Productions of Green projecting the route. The “send video” is in the works and we’ll have it up once available. Congrats Jason!