Alex Megos Attempts Flash of Historic 5.14c
When it was first sent in 1992, it was one of the three hardest routes in the world
Alex Megos is in Slovenia for some hardcore climbing training. He recently took a break from this training to attempt a flash of the historic and very difficult Za Staro Kolo In Majhnega Psa 5.14c (8c+) in Osp, Slovenia. The route was first climbed by Tadej Slabe in 1992 and at the time, it was one of the three hardest routes in the world alongside Action Directe 5.14d and Hubble 5.14c.
Megos just released a video of his flash attempt of the route. He didn’t get any specific beta beforehand other than watching a video of a previous send. His flash attempt was unsuccessful but he redpointed the line shortly afterwards.
Megos is now likely the only climber in the world who’s sent all three of these historic climbs – Za Staro Kolo In Majhnega Psa, Action Directe, and Hubble. Frankenjura’s Action Directe was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllic in September 1991. He gave the climb a UIAA grade of XI, which at the time translated to 5.14c/d (8c+/9a). Subsequent ascents confirmed the grade at 5.14d, making the route the first 5.14d (9a) in the world.
Hubble, located at the Raven Tor crag in England, was first sent by Ben Moon in June 1990 and originally given a grade of 5.14c. There is growing debate about Hubble’s grade. Several top climbers have suggested a grade of 5.14d. First sent a year before Action Directe, this upgrade would make Hubble the world’s earliest 5.14d. To learn more on the history of the Hubble–Action Directe grade discussion, read our article on the subject.
Alex Megos on Za Staro Kolo In Majhnega Psa 5.14c
Check out the latest buyer's guide:
