Anna Hazelnutt Climbing North America’s First 5.14a
Smith Rock's To Bolt or Not to Be 5.14a is one of the most famous sport routes in the world
In November 2023, Anna Hazelnutt sent North America’s first 5.14a (8b+), To Bolt or Not to Be in Smith Rock, Oregon. The line was bolted by Smith Rock legend Alan Watts and first climbed by French climber Jean-Baptiste Tribout way back in 1986. It’s since become a rite of passage for climbers operating at the grade, seeing ascents from many top climbers, including Jerry Moffat, Ron Kauk, Alan Watts, Lynn Hill, Chris Sharma, Beth Rodden, Tommy Caldwell, Dave Graham, Steve McClure, Jonathan Siegrist, Paige Claassen, Adam Ondra, Nina Caprez, and Sonnie Trotter, among many others.
The vertical 35-metre line works its way up crisp edges and crimps and tiny footholds, requiring a mix of strong fingers, stamina, balance, trust, technique, and a cool head. Hazelnutt came heartbreakingly close to sending To Bolt or Not to Be early in her projecting process, but an index finger split tip led to her having to rework her beta so that she could avoid using the finger. She ended up sending the project on her 13th day on the route. A new send film of her time on the climb was recently released, which you can watch below.
“To Bolt is the most intimidating goal I’ve taken on, and I feel extremely lucky to have done it in the time frame I had!” said Hazelnutt on Instagram after her ascent. “Joining the list of people who have done this beautiful climb is an honor. To say this project was psychologically mind bending might be an understatement. I’ve never felt so out of control on a climb before, in so many ways.”
Hazelnutt is no stranger to long, technical, and spicy face climbs. In Fall 2021, she sent Once Upon a Time in the Southwest E9 6c, a bold, steep slab trad route at Dyers Lookout in the U.K. In early 2022, she made the first female ascent of Once Upon a Time in the Southwest’s neighbour, Walk of Life E9 6c. The 50-metre line features crimpy holds, tiny gear placements, and big run-outs. In October 2022, she sent Spank the Monkey 5.13d R in Smith Rock.  In March 2023 she sent Prinzip Hoffnung 5.13d/14a E9/10 in Bürser Platte, Austria.
Anna Hazelnutt on To Bolt or Not to Be 5.14a
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