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Miho Nonaka Cruises a Classic Bishop V13

Known for her comp climbing prowess, Nonaka takes her skills outdoors and sends Buttermilker V13

Miho Nonaka recently repeated Buttermilker V13 (8B) in Bishop, California. The Dave Graham line is characterized by big, satisfying, slappy moves on slopers. It’s been climbed by a who’s who of top climbers, including Jimmy Webb, Carlo Traversi, Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods, Ethan Salvo, and many more. Mellow just released send footage of Nonaka’s ascent, which you can watch below.

Buttermilker can be climbed from a stand start, but arguably it’s purest and most original form is from a couple of moves lower in a seated position. Many believe the stand to clock in around V12, with the full seated-version of the problem coming in a tad harder at V13.

Not particularly known for her rock climbing, Nonaka is one of the best competitive climbers in the world. She won silver at the Tokyo Olympics in 2021. In the Boulder World Cup, she won gold overall for the 2018 season and silver overall in 2016, 2022, and 2023. In last year’s Boulder World Cup circuit, she won gold in Seoul and bronze in Innsbruck. The 26-year-old has not yet secured a qualifying spot for the 2024 Paris Olympics. She came in second at the 2023 Asian Qualifier, narrowly missing an Olympic ticket opportunity. She’ll have another chance to earn a Paris spot at the Olympic Qualifying Series this spring.

Miho Nonaka repeats Buttermilker Sit V13

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