Ondra, Whittaker and Bosi Climb Legendary Czech Sandstone Cracks

Crack climbing pro Pete Whittaker and crack climbing neophyte Will Bosi recently joined up with Adam Ondra to try some hard classics on the famous Czech sandstone towers of Adršpach.

In addition to the area’s beauty and stellar rock, Adršpach is well-known for its adherence to strict local climbing traditions. These ethics forbid the use of metallic trad gear such as cams and nuts. Instead knotted ropes and wedges are used for protection in order to protect the delicate rock. Chalk is also not allowed. Other than knots and fabric wedges, ring bolts have been installed on some routes, but they are few and far between, leading to lengthy runouts.

The trio climb a link of Daring Deed (Husarský Kousek) IXb/7a/5.11d, first sent in 1981, and White Mice (Bílé Myšky) VIIIa/6a+/5.10b, which was first ascended in 1969. They also climb the very runout Crash and Burn Trail (Hubařská stezka) IXa/6c+/5.11c, which saw its first ascent way back in 1964. The film includes an interview with one of the first ascensionists and Czech sandstone climbing legend, Karel “Kokša” Hauschke, who originally climbed the sketchy route barefoot with a rope tied around his chest.

The film ends with an absolutely wild climb, Juan Gébls Génius IXa Xa/7b+/5.12c, which was FA’d in 2006. The route climbs a shallow, flared vertical groove feature, requiring an immense amount of shoulder strength and balance. It also requires a clear head, as the groove section is ridiculously runout. “This looks utterly desperate,” said Whittaker as he entered the groove. With much effort, Ondra was able to flash the route.