Stefano Ghisolfi Climbing the Legendary Action Directe 5.14d
The top Italian climber repeated the world's first 5.14d late last year
In Fall 2023, on his way home back to Italy after projecting Silence 5.15d up in Norway, Stefano Ghisolfi stopped in Frankenjura, Germany to try Action Directe 5.14d (9a). The historic line was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllic way back in September 1991. Güllic gave the climb a UIAA grade of XI, which at the time translated to 5.14c/d (or 8c+/9a). Subsequent ascents confirmed the grade at 5.14d, making the route the first 5.14d (9a) in the world.
Ghisolfi ended up sending the route on November 3. It was his sixth day working the route over a couple of visits. “It is mind blowing to think that it was climbed in ’91 from the visionary Wolfgang Güllich,” said Ghisolfi via Instagram. “I’m grateful to be able to climb this piece of history of our sport.” You can watch a newly released film of Ghisolfi’s send below.
Bolted on steep wall on the Waldkopf crag by Milan Sykora in the 1980s, the original route traversed in from the right. Güllich bolted and climbed a direct start, creating Action Directe. The route has gone on to see more than 30 ascents. The first woman to climb the legendary route was Mélissa Le Nevé in 2020.
Some climbers believe that Hubble is the world’s first 5.14d. Located at the Raven Tor crag in England, the line was first climbed by Ben Moon in June 1990 – over a year before Action Directe’s FA – and originally given a grade of 5.14c. Several top climbers have suggested an upgrade of the route, which would make Hubble the world’s first true 5.14d (9a).
Stefano Ghisolfi sends Action Directe 5.14d (9a)
Check out the latest buyer's guide:
