On May 26, Tim Emmett made the first ascent of his epic sport project on Anvil Island, a small island in the Howe Sound between Vancouver and Squamish. He named the route Archimedes Principle and graded it 5.14b. The line is severely overhanging, with physical, pumpy climbing not found in many other places in the Sea-to-Sky corridor. A new short-film by Jon Glassberg and Louder Than 11 detailing Emmett’s ascent was just released, and you’ll likely be surprised at how steep the granite can get near Squamish.
Archimedes Principle features a V11 boulder problem to a poor shakeout, which is then followed by a section of V6/7 to join up with finish of Apnea 5.13d/14a, another Anvil line put up by Emmett. “[Archimedes Principle is] such an amazing route and without doubt, the hardest sequence of moves I’ve ever put together on a climb,” Emmett said via Instagram. Squamish local Ben Harnden made the second ascent of Archimedes Principle in June, confirming the grade.
Originally from the U.K., Emmett now lives in Squamish. He’s considered one of the pioneers of deep-water soloing, opening many lines in Spain and other locations around the world two decades ago. Along with his climbing partners, he was the first in the world to send waterfall ice climbs at grades WI 10, WI 11, WI 12, and WI 13 – all at Helmcken Falls in British Columbia. He was also part of a group to first ascend the east face of the Kedar Dome in the Himalayas.
Emmett’s made many hard ascents in trad and sport. In 2010, he made the first ascent of Muy Caliente E9 6c in Pembroke, Wales. He’s also repeated the gritstone test piece Meshuga E9 6c and the intimidating The Path 5.14a R at Lake Louise. One of his hardest sport climbs to date was a repeat of Sonnie Trotter’s Superman 5.14c.