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Indoor Weekly: Finger Training for Crimp Strength

While climbing is largely about mental and technical skills, you can’t argue that getting physically stronger is just as important.

There have been many studies that prove climbers who use fingerboards have higher grip-strength-to-mass ratio, greater forearm endurance and a higher rate of force development in the finger flexors.

That is why the fingerboard (or hangboard) has become the best piece of training gear for climbers.

The fingerboard showed up in the 1980s and is still most climbers number one piece of equipment.

They provide a brief, high-intensity straight-armed workout and are the single most effective isolation exercise a climber can do.

Plus, they’re economical and can be mounted pretty much anywhere.

In this video, Ollie Torr runs through some fingerboarding exercises and explains best practice.