Day 14:

By this point in the routine, our bodies should have beguh to adapt to these high stress exercises which define our conditioning and power training. Lock-offs and front levers should have become marginally easier, while off-set pull-ups may feel even more challenging than they did at the beginning of this routine. Our bodies have become powered out.

To remedy this situation before entering our third week of training, we will allow ourselves two consecutive rest days. This rest will make up days 15 and 16 of our routine. We will return to training on May 1. For the time being, we will put a focus on finishing up the conditioning portion of these last two days’ training.

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I don’t have a home wall up here in rural New York, or even a serious training set up. It’s still snowing here, and when it’s not actively precipitating it’s muddy. I hangboard at the mercy of the sun, maybe once or twice a week. I’m thankful for that. Thankful when the sun comes out for more reasons beyond training my fingers. I’m running 5k every single day, which might seem like nothing to some, but for me is huge. During my runs I’ve seen turkeys, scared a woodchuck right up into a tree (sorry buddy!), found an entire intact skeleton of a stag, smelled dirt and air and trees and grass and rain and sweat. I spend almost every single day without seeing or speaking a word to another person face to face. It’s been a massive exercise in learning to let go of control of the present, of the future, being at the mercy of the waves of life, circumstances, nature, and the world. And yet at the same time, carving out space in this new-ish version of reality. It’s doable. Humans- for better or worse- adapt with lightning speed. We change. We stay the same. We sit still. We move, and so on. But for right now, I’m just here, and it’s just fine • @scarpana • @tensionclimbing • @frictionlabs

A post shared by Marina Inoue (@marina_inaway) on Apr 28, 2020 at 1:20pm PDT

Warm Up:

• Warming up will likely differ between people, but these are a few good warm ups.
  • Shoulder rolls
  • Rotations: hold arms out perpendicular to the length of your body. Your arms should be parallel to the floor. Begin by rotating your wrists clockwise while your arms are straight. Then increase the rotation from the shoulders, maintain g your straight arms. Steadily increase the radius of rotation until your arms are wind milling, then reverse the direction.
  • Hang on a bar and retract and relax your shoulders
    • Complete a number of pull ups that would warm you up but not tire you out

Agonist muscles:

Once your biceps and shoulders are fully warm, or so warm that you could pull as hard as you would want, begin off-set pull ups.

Weighted Pull-ups:

Weighted pull-ups are fairly easy to execute and, though they may not feel fatiguing over the course of the exercise, exceptionally taxing on the body. As such, it is important that they are executed with proper pull-up form. If you do not have weights, try to fill a backpack with water bottles. Each litre of water is equal to a kilogram.

• First, pick a weight that is below your limit and complete four pull-ups with that weight. If it feels like you can increase the weight, do so for the next set of four pull ups. Continue this process until you find the maximum weight with which you are able to execute good form. This will be your training weight.
  • Complete three sets of three repetitions at that weight. We are completing three reps as opposed to one because climbing is made up of more than one hard move, most of the time, and it is difficult to build strength when completing a single repetition per set. Instead, use your one-rep maximum, if you are interested in finding it, as a test instead of as training.

Core:

For Day 14 we will maintain a fairly high level of repetitions in our core exercises. We will reduce this number slightly in an effort to perfect our form. On the leg-lifts especially, strive for perfect form. Remember, perfect form means no swing and straight legs.

Hanging leg-lifts:

Beginner: 10 sets of 5 repetitions: bring the legs up so that your body makes a 90-degree angle

Moderate: 10 sets of 5 repetitions: bring your feet to the bar

Expert: 10 sets of 10 repetitions: feet to bar

The 5-minute Core Destroyer:

• One minute each of the following exercises:
  • Plank
  • big kicks
  • swimmer kicks
  •  V-Sit
  • big kicks
    • There is no rest between each exercise, instead rest at the conclusion of all five exercises. Then rest for five minutes and repeat the series twice more.

Antagonist Muscles:

Push-ups: High Intensity

Complete 5, 7, or 10 repetitions depending on your skill level per exercise on Day 14. Once that is established…

Complete the following exercises three times in a row for a total of nine sets. Your total push-up count for the day will be either 45, 63, or 90 repetitions.

• elbows-back push-ups: complete 5-10 then rest 30 seconds
• diamond push-ups: complete 5-10 then rest 30 seconds
• archer push-ups: complete 5-10 then rest 30 seconds

Flexibility:

Hold each stretch for 15-30 seconds:

• Straddle Splits: This stretch is important to climbing as it increases a climber’s lateral flexibility for moves like stemming in a corner.
• Hamstring: keep your legs straight and bend down to your feet. Keep your back flat for an alternate version of this stretch.
• Hip-flexor: Flexible hip-flexors allow a climber to high-step.
• Quadricep: preventative against injury
• Triceps stretch: preventative against injury
• Shoulder stretch: increases mobility
• Calf stretch: increased heel-hooking mobility

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New 1/2 stirup WR?? Here’s my first attempt at 81.5kg @barrelstrengthsystems Second videos are some training sets on the @digitclimbing V-mobs. My main sets were 4 reps at 71kg on the 10mm edges. Training your fingers from the floor can be a great alternative if you don’t have a hangboard and an excellent way to precisely structure intensity and volume of your training. Many climbers are starting to incorporate this training method with great success! Check out @samueltiukuvaara and @sergioclimb how have been crushing new PR in training! @digitclimbing @verti_call @temboclimbing @xcultusa @flashedclimbing @team.crg #gripstrength #thisweekingrip #armlifting #vmobs #fingertraining #trainingforclimbing #wr #pr

A post shared by Yves Gravelle (@yvesgravelle) on Apr 28, 2020 at 7:59pm PDT

Featured photo by Vanessa Monana.