Alexander Megos has been spending some time this fall climbing at the Capella sector in Siurana. His main focus has been repeating new 5.15 routes established by U.K. crusher Will Bosi.
Last week, Megos made the second ascent of King Capella (watch below), which Bosi gave 5.15c. After nine days of effort, Megos sent and shared the news on Instagram. Megos, who is known for assigning grades to routes he repeats did not grade King Capella, leaving many to wonder if it’s easier than 5.15c, a grade that only a handful of climbers have ticked.
Megos has now made the second ascent of Furia De Jabali after seven days of projecting, which Bosi made the first ascent of this summer at 5.15b. Once again, Megos has not included a grade, saying, “After doing King Capella I dedicated some time and managed to do all the moves with a slightly different beta.”
Megos spent 60 days working on his route Bibliographie 5.15c in 2020 before he made the first ascent, has flashed 5.14d and in 2016 established Canada’s first 5.15b with Fight Club in Banff, which hasn’t been repeated. There’s no word whether Megos will grade eighter of Bosi’s 5.15s, but he has said that King Capella is more difficult than Furia De Jabali.
Megos’s Top Sends
Perfecto Mundo 5.15c in 2018 (FA)
Bibliographie in 2020 (FA)
King Capella 5.15c? in 2021 (second ascent)
Fightclub 5.15b (FA)
First Round First Minute 5.15b (third ascent)
Supernova 5.15a/b (FA)
King Capella 5.15c?