Seb Bouin Climbs Bibliographie 5.15c
It was first climbed by Alex Megos three years ago at 5.15d, but was later downgraded by Stefano Ghisolfi. This is the fourth ascent
Photo by: Clarisse Bompard (@clarisse.bompard)
French climber Sébastien Bouin has made the fourth ascent of Bibliographie at Céüse in Southern France. The 35-metres test-piece is found close to the classic Biographie 5.15a. In the past 18 months, Bouin has climbed DNA 5.15d, Supreme Jumbo Love’ 5.15c, and several other 5.15s.
It was first climbed by Alex Megos in 2020, who graded it 5.15d, and repeated by Stefano Ghisolfi in August 2021. About the grade, Ghisolfi said, “I know I can climb a 9c [5.15d], but for a route to be that grade it needs to be much harder than the existing 9b+s [5.15cs], and Bibliographie for me isn’t.” Megos agreed with the downgrade.
Around a month after Ghisolfi climbed it, American Sean Bailey made the third ascent. About the send, Bailey said, “I spent a lot of time questioning why I was putting myself through it. I knew I could train for it, come back another year with the right fitness and a fresher mind and probably have an easier time at it. In the end, I realized I needed to see this process through just as much as I needed to send, I’m glad I did!”
About Bibliograpghie, Bouin said, “During the projecting, I fell 11 times at the top of the route – after the main crux – I think I underestimated it. It doesn’t look or feel that hard when you do that sequence on itself, but when you’re coming from the ground, it’s way different. Conditions were quite challenging this year, as it was raining almost every day. Bibliographie is not a route that suits my strengths, so it was a great challenge.”
Check out the latest buyer's guide:
