10 Sport Climbing Highlights of 2023
With several new upper end 5.15s and a 10-year-old climbing 5.14c, there was never a dull moment at the crags
It was a memorable year of big sends in the world of sport climbing, from hard repeats to cutting-edge first ascents. A new 5.15d was climbed, while several other potentially harder projects were started.
Below is a list of 10 ascents that were not only meaningful to the climbers but that have gone on to inspire others.
Chris Sharma climbs Sleeping Lion: Chris Sharma made the first ascent a new 5.15c in Siurana, Spain, which he called Sleeping Lion. It was Sharma’s second 5.15c. Read more here.
Michaela Kiersch climbs La Rambla: At the start of the year, American climber Michaela Kiersch sent La Rambla 5.15a in Siurana. Kiersch’s send was the third female ascent of the historic line. In February 2017, Margo Hayes became the first woman in the world to climb 5.15a with her send of the route. In November 2022, Chaehyun Seo made the second female ascent of the route. Read more here.
Stefano Ghisolfi climbs Excalibur: Italian climber Stefano Ghisolfi, 29, made the first ascent of his long-term project, Excalibur, and gave it a grade of 5.15c. The climb is located in Drena, near Ghisolfi’s hometown of Arco, Italy. The line is short, steep, and powerful. It works its way up a series of sharp micro edges and small awkwardly-positioned pockets to a fierce boulder problem up high, requiring an extremely technical heel hook. Read more here.
Jacob Schubert climbs Big: Jakob Schubert made the first ascent of Big, a massive route in Flatanger, and graded it 5.15d. He battled a deep pump, wet sections and a broken hold. Around 4,000 people were watching the livestream when he clipped the chains. Read more here.
Laura Rogora climbs Lapsus: Laura Rogora, 22, made the first female ascent of Lapsus, a steep 5.15a at Andonno, Italy. During her trip, she also climbed several other noteworthy sport routes. Read more here.
Jorje Diaz-Rullo joins 5.15c club: He has made the first ascent of his Margalef project Mejorando la Samfaina, and graded it 5.15c. Diz-Rullo’s new route is a link-up of Mejorando Imagen 5.15a/b and Samfaina 5.15a. His one of only a few climbers to have climbed 5.15c. Read more here.
Kai Lightner climbs Life of Villains: American climber Kai Lightner repeated Life of Villains 5.14d in the Hurricave, Utah. His first 5.14d was Era Vella in Spain nearly a decade earlier and his first 5.14c was Southern Smoke at age 13. Read more here.
Paige Claassen climbs Legacy: In summer, Paige Claassen repeated Legacy 5.14d in Rocklands, South Africa. She sent the project after only four days of work – three mornings top-rope soloing with a mini traxion and one day with a belayer. The micro route opens with an extremely fingery sequence of moves on tiny, sharp crimps. Read more here.
Anak Verhoeven’s mega day: Belgian climber Anak Verhoeven, 27, climbed a 5.14d while visiting Rodellar, Spain, twice in one day. Verhoeven climbed the 50-metre stamina test-piece called Cosi se Arete 5.14d at Piscineta Sector, during the day, and then at night. “I sure was very determined,” she said, “through the upper crux, past the series of endurance moves at the very top… until I clipped the anchor! Yes! Goal for the day reached. Then I suddenly wondered if I could maybe give this headlamp.” Read more here.
Kwon Gaeun makes history: Korean climber Kwon Gaeun repeated Southern Smoke 5.14c at the Bob Marley Crag in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. At 10 years and three months old, she became the youngest climber to ever send 5.14c. In 2012, Ashima Shiraishi climbed 5.14c with Southern Smoke at the age of 11. Last year, Yunxi Chen became the youngest climber to send 5.14a at age eight, read more here. Read more here.
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