Rock Climbing Weekly #6: V15, 5.14 and New Bolted Multi-Pitches in B.C.
Hard repeats and first ascents as we head into July
There’s a lot to cover in the world of rock climbing, so we’re bringing it to you in a quick-to-read story that highlights some of the most noteworthy sends and misses of the week. For indoor-only climbing, visit Gripped Indoors and for paddling, camping, skiing and hiking visit Gripped Outdoors.
A new review of the best crack climbing gloves for 2021 by Gripped writer and photographer Anthony Walsh can be found here.
A lot of strong climbing has gone down over the past few weeks in Alberta. A free online guidebook to bolted multi-pitches can be found here, along with beta to a new eight-pitch bolted 5.10c in Banff called Chert Reynolds.
Zach Watson made the FA of Beast Syndrome 5.14b in McGillivray Canyon. He also repeated The Unknown Stuntman 5.13d at Acephale, which was also sent by Maddy Marchuk. Also in McGillivray Canyon, Mason Tessier repeated Smells Like Teen Fascism 5.14a, and made the FA of Don’t Mope 5.13a, and back up at Acephale, Paige Boklaschuk climbed Jingus Americanus 5.12d.
And in Echo Canyon, Bonar McCallum made the first ascent of The Tree of Knowledge 5.12. About the new climb, he said, “A new line at the cave. This one is full value, 21 bolts long, and a little of everything. The last five bolts pack a punch, very technical and relatively sustained considering that it is not that steep. I did consider calling it 12c, not sure if it deserves the d… but I had to fight pretty hard to get it done.”
On Vancouver Island, a new bolted six-pitch 5.10b was added to Mount Arrowsmith called Time Machine, and a new 13-pitch bolted 5.11 was added to Nomash Slab. In Squamish, Zombie Roof saw at least two redpoints, by Evan Peplinski and Rowen Blackburn. And Ontario’s Ethan Salvo sent The Deputy V12 and has been projecting The Singularity V14 in record-breaking hot temps and smoke-filled skies.
In Ontario, Nicolas Carroll climbed the hard Yankee Clipper 5.13c and American Beauty 5.13b. In Quebec, Max Banel made the FA of Le Docteur V5 at Val-David.
Internationally, Giuliano Cameroni made the fourth ascent of La Force V15 in Magic Wood first climbed by Daniel Woods. Cameroni also made the FA of Hazel Grace V15/16, and said, “First day of the season, what a day. A huge mountain of snow was surrounding the bloc, making it magical. Conditions were perfect, and no pressure was involved. Checked out the moves, rested for half an hour and climbed it first try. Great moment where everything connected.”
In the States, Audrey Miller sent her first 5.14c with Kill Em All in Lander, Wyoming, and Jon Glassberg sent The Nest V15 in Red Rock.
In Colorado, Matt Fultz repeated Creature of the Black Lagoon V16, another Daniel Woods route. Fultz, 30, has climbed nearly 20 V16s over the past year. About the most recent, he said, “It took 15 to 20 days spread out over four years. However, I discovered I was using terrible beta, and after working out a different sequence I was able to send it in a couple more sessions. Creature is one of the most repeated V16s in the world, but in my opinion, it is definitely a step above all other V16s I’ve done, so the grade seems fair.”
Weekly Updates: Ice Season 2020/21, Rock 1, Rock 2, Rock 3, Rock 4, Rock 5
Access: Be sure to follow your local access group: Squamish, Kootenays, Alberta, Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia, Newfoundland. For tips on how to be a good steward of the land visit here.
Gear and Tips: For spring rock climbing gear, check out the best climbing harnesses for 2021, best crack gloves and the best cams for 2021. Here are the seven best hiking boots for this year. For safety, here are five reasons to wear a helmet, tips to be a better bouldering spotter and 10 tips for a more fun spring. Always wear a helmet!
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